This is one of the main Gateways to the inner sanctum of Golconda Fort in Hyderabad. Originally a mud fort built on a granite hilltop, the citadel was expanded by the Qutb Shahi dynasty from the early 1500’s until it comprised an outer wall, some 7-10kms in length (depending on which account you read), surrounding two further defensive rings. Many of the gateways through these walls were built in the manner of the one in the photograph; the approaches to the gateways were convoluted and backed by high walls so that any potential invader could not get a good run up to batter the gates. Furthermore, the gates were studded with giant, sharp spikes to protect against the ‘tanks’ of their day – the elephants! Finally, the ramparts above the gateway approaches were designed to allow arrows, rocks and hot oil to be poured down upon any attacker who had even got thus far. With an independant water supply and huge grain storage buildings, it is no surprise that the fort held out for 9 months against a siege by the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb in 1687. Eventually, one legend has it that Sarandaz Khan, a military official in the Qutb Shahi army treacherously opened a gate during a night attack, allowing Aurangzeb’s army to enter and capture the citadel. Today, the gates are possibly rather easier to enter – all you need to do is pay a few rupees and then run through the siege and blockade run by the army of local tourist guides offering their services along the path between the ticket booth and the gate in the photo – Hmmm…perhaps Aurangzeb had it easy in comparison!
Many myths, stories and legends surround Golconda – perhaps not surprising when you learn that for many years this was the World’s only known source of diamonds and that many of history’s largest and most valuable jems were either found or traded here. Regardless of the truth or otherwise of many of the stories attached to the place, it is a fascinating place to visit – even without a guide.